The Quaint Medieval Town of Zemen in Western Bulgaria Takes you on a Time Travel

By Neeta Lal

As we drive 70 km southwest of the Bulgarian capital city of Sofia towards Pernik province, the urban Legoland paves way for a Van Gogh-esque setting.

Blooming flowers, emeraldgreen fields, towering pine and oak trees fill our car's glass windows like vibrant watercolours.

The mocha-coloured Vitosha Mountains loom in the distance, fronted by the mercurial River Struma.

Our destination? The quaint medieval town of Zemen that skirts the Konyavska mountain.

The plan? A deep immersion in the Bulgarian countryside, a tryst with nature and a taste of farm-fresh food. We begin with a quick tour of Zemen that acquaints us with its myriad charms — plunging valleys, precipitous gorges, scenic villages and waterfalls. Earlier called Belovo, the town hosts about 3,500 residents now, mostly Bulgarian Orthodox, who subsist on farming, cattle breeding or dairy production.

Zemen offers spectacular, 360-degree views of the entire Pernik Valley as well as the Struma gorge. As I peer gingerly into the valley's depths, lush foliage can be seen carpeting it interspersed with rooftops in the hues of sherbet. The Struma Canyon, where the River Struma has carved unique shapes and forms, glints further afield.

The 415 km Struma — named after the mythical Thracian king Strymon who drowned in it — flows not only through Bulgaria but also Greece and Macedonia. Now diminished, it is still a popular haunt for visitors to Zemen who throng its southern banks for quiet, contemplative walks or fishing. As the tour progresses, we are joined by Zemen's affable mayor Dimitar Sotirov who is focusing on making the town more attractive for visitors.