Naxos: Cultural heritage and challenges

In recent years, we have been mere spectators in a joyless drama. From the decks of ferries and the windows of our hotels to the crowded shores of popular beaches and the tables of upscale nouvelle-cuisine-style tavernas serving ceviche, we watch helplessly as tourism swallows the Cyclades. I recently had the experience of witnessing the tiny islet of Ano Koufonisi being devoured: boats full of tourists disembarking and cramming into inches of sand under scorching heat. The island is already overflowing with visitors, yet development continues, while its beaches cannot expand. However, amidst this onslaught, there are places that resist, like the island of Naxos.

The Church of Agios Georgios in Melanes was once a Roman bath adorned with frescoes depicting naked bathers.  [Ephorate of Cycladic Antiquities]

Naxos holds a distinct advantage due to its size, offering kilometers...