Astypalaia: Tourism here is a family affair

Astypalaia (also spelled Astypalea) has not lost its charm. At the end of spring, this Dodecanese island is still lush and green. The Chora sparkles under the strong Aegean light. Many shops are still closed, and the few tourists enjoy the relaxed atmosphere. A dance performance organized by the Cultural and Educational Association of Astypalaia on this Sunday evening, featuring dozens of schoolchildren, becomes an occasion for a small celebration, with locals gathering in the courtyard of Agios Nikolaos in Pera Gialos to admire their children. Afterward, people disperse into large groups at restaurants and cafes. There is this family atmosphere that characterizes small island communities before the frenzy of summer takes over.

Behind this image of normalcy, Astypalaia is experiencing a period of change. The sense of transition is strong among all the island's residents -...