Why are wineries around the world seeking this certification?

Saskia de Rothschild, chief executive of Domaines Barons de Rothschild, which now has B Corp certification for all of its estates globally, at one of its wineries in Pauillac, France, May 28, 2024. Certificates of social and environmental responsibility, like B Corp status, have become important markers for wineries that place values front and center. [Yann Werdefroy/The New York Times]

Grape growers and wine producers have long sought certifications testifying to their sustainable farming methods or their commitment to protecting the environment. They have taken great satisfaction in displaying their organic or biodynamic credentials. No less would be expected in a field that prides itself on offering a natural, agricultural product.

Far less attention has been paid over the years to how wineries treated the people who are doing the actual farming and production work. It's been an enormous oversight, particularly as agricultural workers continue to be prime targets for exploitation.

Just last year four workers died in Champagne, France, while harvesting grapes in extreme heat. French prosecutors in 2023 also opened human trafficking investigations into companies supplying seasonal workers. Similar scandals have occurred all over the agricultural...

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