Taverna Aoritis: Changing Course

Opened a year ago on the side street of Michalakopoulou in Ilisia, Taverna Aoritis initially served café-style Cretan cuisine, complemented by appropriate decor and music. I still recall the taste of the sizzling snails with their tangy vinegar hint, the fried rabbit, and, of course, the antikristo. Now, it has transformed into a classic taverna offering dishes inspired by traditional Greek cuisine, infused with a playful Cretan touch – a natural evolution, given that Sifis Manouselis’s kitchen team hails from the island.

The menu is not extensive but offers plenty of choices. From spicy cheese dip made with feta from Kozani, served with crispy baked thyme-honey sheets – surprisingly delightful – to hand-rolled dolmades, and a rich, flavorful moussaka topped with a sumptuous béchamel sauce – a must-try dish. The lamb chops, both lamb and mutton, and the creamy Sunday giouvetsi with veal, are also notable.

Special mention must go to the delicious, tender Prespa beans cooked with spinach and chard, served in a clay pot. From the first bite, you’ll want to dive right in. The cabbage dolmades with egg-lemon sauce are equally outstanding, featuring a tangy lemony flavor balanced with a touch of spice for a harmonious taste.

How could I leave out the fried rabbit? Retained from the previous menu – and rightly so – it’s prepared in the Cretan style with a vinegar-rosemary sauce. A dish so flavorful that one serving is never enough, especially if you’re with a food-loving group. Note that the antikristo remains on the menu, but only on Sunday afternoons. Unfortunately, I visited on a Saturday and only saw it being prepared.

This “modest” meal also included authentic liver sarma with wild greens – not among my personal favorites – and meatballs, which I cannot resist. Perfectly fried and flavorful, they are best enjoyed with French fries. If you spot zucchini, which is seasonal and scarce, request it as a side dish for the meatballs.

For dessert, don’t leave without trying the retro serano pastry with a cherry inside. Prepared by Alexandros Koniaris, a brilliant pastry chef, you’ll understand its excellence with just one bite.

I won’t say I prefer the current iteration of Aoritis over its previous version, as not much has truly changed. The dishes remain just as tasty, the atmosphere just as warm and welcoming, and the service impeccable. Only the culinary philosophy has shifted slightly. Personally, I’d return anytime, always for lunch.

Info:
15 Meandrou St., Ilisia, Tel. 210 7255699.

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