Anastasia Miliou

As many Greeks give up certain foods - and eat a lot more seafood - in the runup to Easter next month, a study by the Archipelagos Institute of Marine Conservation found that some 80 percent of seafood restaurants in Greece either serve or allow customers to place advance orders for protected species that are considered culinary delicacies, such as date mussels, fan mussels and Triton's trumpet

I met hydrobiologist Anastasia Miliou, the scientific director of the Archipelagos Institute of Marine Conservation, on the small island of Lipsi in the southeastern Aegean on an August morning. The Archipelagos logo on her T-shirt and an impressive collection of scars on her hands and feet had me intrigued and I couldn't stop asking her questions.