An iron fist in a velvet glove

Perhaps her name hasn't reached many of you yet. That is because she is a chef who prefers to work quietly and steadily, avoiding the spotlight. Allow me to introduce Suna Hakyemez, the head chef at Roka in Istanbul. Her story and dedication have become a source of inspiration for many in the culinary world.

I cover gastronomic developments, new dining restaurants and chef profiles. Yet, what excites me the most is highlighting individuals who influence the sector, particularly budding entrepreneurs and culinary students. Suna stands out in this regard. For me, the best way to characterize her is as "an iron fist in a velvet glove."

Beyond her graceful and courteous exterior, her role demands a toughness not everyone possesses, regardless of gender. As the lead of a globally recognized restaurant, her job is exceptionally challenging.

Suna embarked on her career at Zuma in Istanbul immediately after completing her studies in Gastronomy and Culinary Arts at Yeditepe University. Within two years, she relocated to London to work in different branches of Roka. It is worth mentioning for those unfamiliar that Zuma and Roka are sister brands within the same group. Zuma's debut in London in 2002 marked a significant moment with its fresh take on Japanese cuisine, inspiring numerous establishments to replicate its menu over the years. Observing the popularity of robatayaki at Zuma, its founder, Rainer Becker, in collaboration with chef Hamish Brown, launched Roka two years later, a brand dedicated to robatayaki, following Zuma's opening.

Suna's professional path included not just a stint at Roka in London but also a two-year work at The Fat Duck, the celebrated three Michelin-starred restaurant led by Heston Blumenthal, a chef held in high...

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