Safderun: A culinary tribute to Anatolia’s finest ingredients

Savaş Zafer is one of those chefs who embrace the cuisine of the land he lives in, acknowledges the value of its ingredients and, in short, revives our hopes for the new generation.

When I first met Savaş Zafer, Safderun was just a few months away from opening. At the time, he was (and still is) leading the kitchen at Perihan Meyhane in Göztepe, and from what I heard, he was doing a good job. When I asked him about the kind of cuisine he planned for the new restaurant, he eagerly showed me his notes. The list of ingredients was much longer than I anticipated, featuring items like pomegranate syrup from Oğuzeli, mature kasseri cheese from Malkara, and purple onions from Kapıdağ, in addition to more familiar ingredients such as garlic from Taşköprü and olive oil from Milas. Another page contained a list of dishes that was at least as extensive as the list of ingredients.

We know that the key focus is not just creating this list of ingredients but also actually sourcing them. "Dear Ebru, I have found the producers one by one and will personally visit each producer before the restaurant opens to establish a warmer and one-to-one relationship," he said. "Historically, the best has always been found in Istanbul, and I want to bring that tradition to my kitchen by the Golden Horn," he added. Eager to see how well he could deliver on his promises, I was among the first to visit Safderun upon its opening. The venue is housed in a freestanding stone building at the entrance to Feshane Artİstanbul on the shores of the Golden Horn, owned by Istanbul Municipality. At first glance, it is striking for its high ceilings, which create a sense of spaciousness, and its simple, elegant decor.

When I first sat down at the table, I eagerly glanced at the...