Naxos, where tradition never got old

 The food that the residents of this Cycladic island prepare has changed little over the centuries

By Nena Dimitriou *

Naxos is a fertile garden in the middle of the Aegean Sea. Za, the highest mountain in the Cyclades, Mount Fanari and the entire area around the village of Kinidaro yield crystalline marble, granite and emery.

Below the quarries, on ground underpinned by limestone, the islanders' sheep and goats graze on wild greens that grow in the mineral-rich soil and yield creamy milk that is made into six or seven different types of cheese. Below the pastures, the Naxiot livestock farmers have their animal sheds and dairies, dotted around villages such as Filoti. The plateaus are home to the farms – worked without pause – where the islanders grow citrus fruits, including pomelo, and olives. The meadows below the plateaus are used for “sophisticated” livestock farming, producing wonderful beef that is hard to come by elsewhere. And down by the sea, the land yields potatoes, and especially a local variety of spunta.

Across the length and breadth of this mountainous island, you will see the locals working the land. Most have two or three jobs: baker and organic farmer; restaurateur, livestock farmer and dairy producer; producer, packager and merchant. They produce olives and olive oil, fruits and vegetables, raki and more than 10 varieties of grape used for wine or eating. They rear rabbits and chickens and keep bees. The Naxiots are indeed self-reliant. Their products can be purchased on the island and a few stores in the country's larger cities. But their greatest asset is that they are good folk.

The cuisine

Driving back from Koronos and Damarionas to Agiasos, I met a number of locals who...