Church of Agios Georgios

During Vespers last Sunday, Father Paraskevas chanted alone in the empty Church of Agios Georgios in Katapola, the main port of the Aegean island of Amorgos. However, by Monday evening at the same time, the church was packed to capacity, reminiscent of an Easter night service.

In recent years, we have been mere spectators in a joyless drama. From the decks of ferries and the windows of our hotels to the crowded shores of popular beaches and the tables of upscale nouvelle-cuisine-style tavernas serving ceviche, we watch helplessly as tourism swallows the Cyclades.