Locally inspired, stylized and tasty

Özgür Üstün, the executive chef at the Michelin-recommended Avlu Restaurant, is a key figure in the new generation of chefs, known for his expertise in local ingredients, his command of advanced cooking techniques and, most importantly, his down-to-earth personality.

The tasting menu in front of me at Avlu Restaurant was called "7 Regions." We are about to embark on an Anatolian tour covering 11 cities and all Turkish regions. When I look at the descriptions, the dishes are both familiar and unfamiliar. If I weren't acquainted with Chef Özgür, I might think, "Oh no," because many attempt to create their own "fusion" without any exposure to foreign cuisines or the necessary techniques. Why mix flavors you don't understand? Why, so to speak, turn a plate into a clash of incompatible tastes? I find that perplexing. But let's refocus on the exciting Anatolian tour ahead.

The first dish — or rather, the first bite — is çiğ köfte. We enjoy the çiğ köfte served as an amuse bouche, designed to awaken our taste buds, all in a single bite. In terms of appearance and preparation, it differs significantly from the çiğ köfte we're familiar with. They create a steak tartare and mix it with a classic, meatless çiğ köfte blend, then place it in delicate, crispy tart shells. The flavor is exactly that of çiğ köfte. After this delightful amuse-bouche, which left a pleasant touch of flavor on our palates, I'm even more eager for the second course.

After Urfa and Adıyaman, we now travel to the other end of the country, to Urla in İzmir. They create a filling for the small-bowl Urla artichokes using a blend of tomatoes, allspice, fresh herbs, currants, and vine leaves. After cooking the mixture, they remove the vine leaves, make a sauce with olive oil,...