Scenes from wonky Greece 2.0

'We've been promised modernization for decades, promised that the country would catch up with the times,' says the author. 'How will this happen when they can't even keep two clocks telling the proper time?'

I've been looking at them for months; but perhaps they've been this way for years, showing different wrong times. I'm talking about the two big round clocks at the tram's Syngrou-Fix stop on Kallirois Street in central Athens.

The stand on either side of a strip of greenery that a bygone mayor had inaugurated as the "Park of the Olympians." I google it, just to be sure that my memory serves me right. It doesn't. It's actually the "Park of Greek Olympians of 1996" and you can even get directions on how to get there. I don't need them, though, because I live less than 500 meters away in Neos Kosmos - not to mention the fact that directions to Utopia have always got me nowhere.

"Park" it says of this narrow strip of grass and a few trees stuck in the middle of a dual carriageway, "where the Ilissos once flowed" until it dried up to a trickle in the 1950s. Then came...

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