Volos, historical and elusive

 An author finds inspiration in the port city of Thessaly, the site of ancient Iolkos

By Kostas Akrivos

A few months ago I had gone running in the foothills of Mount Pilio, near Volos in central Greece, when I came across Fotis. Fotis is said to live in a cave somewhere in the area – driven to the hermetic life by heartbreak – though no one knows exactly where. I waved at him from afar but was ashamed that I had not thought to take some change with me, a tithe to give to this impoverished dervish in exchange for what would certainly be a good tale – he has a reputation for storytelling.

The last time I had shared my change with him was a Sunday. I remember that Olympikos Volou had drawn against Niki Volou on the soccer pitch and we had just learned that the towns of Volos and Larissa had been named as candidates to host the Mediterranean Games – even though the crisis later made it impossible. Strange as it seemed, the two neighboring towns, traditionally torn by the usual regional rivalries, seemed to have worked things out.

It was still early in the early spring morning. The villages of Makrinitsa and Portaria on Mount Pilio were lost in the clouds and down below I could see the leaden waters of the Pagasetic Gulf on the horizon. I don’t know why, but I suddenly decided to shadow Fotis, to see how he spent his days. Then again, maybe I was thinking about Jacques Lacarriere and his classical work “Maria of Egypt,” where he says that if you really want to get to know a place, follow the first innocent who crosses your path.

Fotis greeted the men at the Yacht Club and then turned toward the Anavros River, which flows down from Pilio. I smiled at the thought that he may get lucky and find the sandal lost by the mythical...